Burgstaaken, Germany - Helsingor, Denmark (8 May 2019)

As is our usual practice we arrived at Fehmarn Island three days before our scheduled relaunch. This is to be our fourth season in the Baltic Sea, but also our last for the time being as we plan to head back to France again for a few years. We have enjoyed the parts of the Baltic that we have explored but miss the warmth and food of Brittany and the Biscay coast so would like to return to refresh ourselves!
We had a number of maintenance tasks to complete whilst Whileaway was still inside the modern shed. Those days were unseasonably sunny and warm so we should not have been surprised when relaunch day arrived with cooler weather and threatening clouds. We had asked for a 1000 relaunch and as we prepared the mast, heavy showers began swiftly followed by thunder and forked lightening. For some inexplicable reason the crane gang were reluctant to have first the boat and then the mast in the crane whilst the thunder and lightening were active! No sense of adventure some people.

Thunderstorms stopped so the relaunch is underway

Eventually the thunderstorms moved away and we were back afloat and moved off to the adjacent Burgstaaken harbour to complete our maintenance work and putting the boat back together again. This took longer than expected and we were still putting the finishing touches to this on Sunday morning.

Goodby to Fehmarn!

But just before 1000 we left Fehmarn and headed E under the road and rail bridge and then NE to Bagenkop on the Danish island of Langeland. We were very close to the wind so had to motor sail most of the 37nm, arriving just before 1700.


Bagenkop is a small fishing village with an active fleet and this was our first ever Danish port three years ago. Catches were still being landed from boats in the late afternoon. There were a few visitors in the relatively modern holiday homes that edge part of the harbour but otherwise it was quiet. To Andrea's disappointment we had to pay our harbour dues to a machine. In 2016 we had met a very smartly uniformed (peak cap included) Harbour Master who was a particularly jolly chap. No sign of him this time.

Modern look out building on the harbourside

On Monday we retraced our route for a few miles and then headed N up the S part of the Store Baelt between Langeland and Lolland. We had to motor into a moderate F4 wind which also produced an adverse current. Coupled with this being a busy route for commercial shipping it was a bit of a slog. Our destination was 40nm away, the island of Vejro and we joined three other sailing boats (two German, one Swiss) in a harbour that can cater for 140 leisure craft!

A quiet harbour ....... except for the numerous sea birds and swallows

This is claimed to be one of the prettiest islands in the Smalands channel. It is only a couple of miles long and maybe a mile wide and traditionally had a modest population of smallholders. However they gradually died or left and about 10 years ago work began on establishing a holiday island. There are a few buildings including an upmarket hotel and about half a dozen self catering houses, together with a lighthouse.

Quite a small lighthouse, just shows above the trees

The hotel included a gourmet restaurant and there was of course a landing strip and helipad!  We had read that the harbour fees were twice the normal rate for Denmark (thus close to the rate we would pay in the south of England!), but also that the charges were about 60% in early and late season. Everything appeared to be closed up although the shower and toilet block was open and clearly was upmarket, ranking alongside the best facilities that we have ever enjoyed!
Walking around on a lovely sunny day after our arrival we just saw a few farm workers, gardeners and other tradesman. Passing the magnificent glass houses a lady working there opened the door and called out to us to come and see inside. From her we learnt that the hotel and holiday homes do not become operational until 10 May - so even better value as there was no one to pay harbour dues to!

Kew Gardens style glass houses

Because it is unspoilt and few visitors and occupiers there is plenty of wildlife to see on some very pretty walks around the island.

Pretty walks

There are many deer, hares, pheasants, geese, ducks and numerous other birds. The island is tree clad with a narrow beach which was largely free of plastic.

Morning wash for this hare

Large group of deer

The forecast for the following days showed very strong winds, gusting to gale force, building on Wednesday and not abating until late on Thursday. We wanted to move further E so as the wind was coming from the W we decided to make an early start on Wednesday. We left before 0700 in moderate winds and sailed across the Smalands Farvander, under the bridges at Vordingborg, through some very narrow buoyed channels and on to the port of Kalvehave. By lunch time when we approached the bridge at Kalvehave the wind was building quickly, gusting well into F6, so we decided that 31nm was far enough. A key consideration was that from here we would have to navigate some very shallow winding channels and boisterous conditions were not ideal for that!

The bridge at Kalvehave

Kalvehave is a functional rather than attractive settlement. The harbour is under the shadow of the bridge that links the island of Mon to the Danish main island of Sjaelland.

The very Danish Church at Kalvehave looking across the channel

We did some walking in the brisk and chilly breeze but also took the opportunity to finish some of the still outstanding maintenance tasks. The strong winds were set to be a feature of the weather for a few days. However on the Friday the forecast was for lighter breezes until around 1000 so just before 0700 we set headed N and E and into the narrow buoyed channels, in the company of a Danish sailing boat.

Following the many lateral and cardinal marks 

After about 12nm in channels between the islands we emerged into a wide bay, then headed NNW for 4nm before turning W to enter another narrow buoyed channel for the entry to Praesto arriving at around 1100. We had a little difficulty finding a suitable berth trying both a finger pontoon and a box each of which was too narrow (or we were too wide?). A couple of local sailors came to assist us and one of them generously suggested that we could use his berth as his yacht was temporarily in another berth! As the wind was now blowing hard we were pleased to accept!

The harbour at Praesto from across the fjord

We have been to Praesto before and it is an attractive town with good shopping facilities and lovely walks. We knew that we had to stay a couple of nights as the Saturday weather forecast was for more strong winds. on the Saturday morning we walked a little way along the edge of the fjord, passing a large farm and then through some interesting woodland. .

A magnificent house, seemed to be part of a large farm

Interesting clock on the front of the house

We spent a little time walking round the quiet town centre, noting that roses planted against house walls were already in bud.

Attractive streets and buildings

The forecast for Sunday was better with lighter NW winds initially although they would build during the early afternoon. we opted for another early start. When we rose at 0600 the sun was out but we were surprised to find the deck covered in a layer of frost! Not a breath of wind. Taking care not to slip on the deck as we prepared we were underway within the hour retracing our route through the 4nm channel that leads to Praesto. Once into the open we headed NW and once we were further into the open sea and time had moved on we were able to turn off the engine and began sailing in what became a W F4 wind. 

A crisp morning sail

After we passed the headland E of Rodvig and along the Stevns Klint (which we have been to before) the wind became more lively becoming SW 5 and then bringing gusts of F6. Indeed it was very gusty as we approached Dragor after 41nm but we found a convenient box to moor in not far inside the harbour. We have also been to Dragor before, in 2016 and the small fishing village is very attractive. It is a short distance from Copenhagen so attracts day visitors.

Traditional fishing famlies cottages

On Monday 6 May the forecast was again for strong W winds. Our original thoughts had been to stay a night at the Swedish island of Ven in the middle of the Oresund. However the harbour would be very exposed in the strong W winds so we thought that we would try the Danish port of Rungsted, due W of Ven, which would have some protection. It was a relatively short hop of 20nm but as we had to cross and recross the main shipping lane off Copenhagen and the wind was NNW 5 and then gusting to 6 and 7 we were kept busy reefing and adjusting our course. Not only that but some sharp showers!

Windy, showery, even hailstones!

Rungsted is a large modern marina with all the facilities. It seems to be mainly a convenient place for those working in Copenhagen. Its main interest is in the house and grounds lived in by Karen Blixen (of “Out of Africa” fame). They were put into trust as a bird sanctuary after her death and it is a pleasant walk through the woods.

Karen Blixen's house

The forecast for Tuesday repeated the experience of Monday. Fortunately we only had 10nm to travel, to the port of Helsingor, as it was here that we were leaving Whileaway for a few weeks whilst we returned home. It was an uneventful journey apart from negotiating our way through the numerous ferries that link Helsingor with Helsingborg on Sweden. This is the shortest crossing between the two countries and the ferries only take around 15 minutes and seem to run at 15 minute intervals. So always two or three in sight! The harbour had a berth earmarked for us and were very welcoming.

The castle at Helsingor

Helsingor is a busy and attractive town dominated by its castle which is famous for being the setting for Elsinore in Shakespeares Hamlet. We have spent time at the castle on a previous visit and it is well worth seeing. As is the town with its attractive streets and buildings.

The Kobenhaveneren

For Andrea's birthday lunch we went to the Kobenhavneren a pub serving authentic Dansk food and local beer. The food (fish, prawns, asparagus) was certainly good and the building itself was very traditional and with a cheery barman. An interesting decorative feature were hundreds of beer jugs showcased between the panes of the secondary glazing.

 

Typical street in Helsingore

One worrying find appeared to be activity around a body washed up on the foreshore. Police cars, an ambulance, a rescue boat and many officials around. On closer examination it turned out to be a film shoot. We wonder if the scene will turn up in one of the many Scandanavian Noir films and series that we watch?

A dead body on the foreshore ......

So ended our first leg of this summer's cruising having covered just under 200nm in just under a fortnight. Quite unsettled and chilly weather for the most part but we particularly enjoyed our visits to Vejro and Praesto en-route. 

Our route is in orange